Demi Moore's latest cinematic venture, "The Substance," commences with a quintessential Hollywood flourish. Nestled amidst the bustling cityscape of Los Angeles, the film unravels with an aerial embrace of the iconic Hollywood Walk of Fame, where a fresh star, emblazoned with anticipation, is ceremoniously embedded. Artisans meticulously place the tribute, and its unveiling to the public is met with a flurry of excitement. However, as time wears on, Moore's character, Elisabeth Sparkle's, star succumbs to the ravages of neglect, cracking and fading underfoot. Passersby trample it, indifferent, one even depositing a ketchup-stained burger as a grotesque testament to its decline.
This fleeting montage, no longer than a fleeting couple of minutes, subtly yet poignantly lays the thematic groundwork for the film that unfolds – a profound exploration of youth, beauty's fleeting nature, and the relentless pursuit of relevance. But then, "The Substance" takes a sharp, macabre turn.
After being axed from a television series due to dwindling ratings, Sparkle embarks on a desperate quest to forge an impeccable version of herself. The narrative veers into uncharted territory, transforming into a visceral body horror extravaganza, awash with blood and gore, sparking both outrage and accolades.
"It was a singular, groundbreaking script, viscerally alluring from the get-go," Moore confides to BBC News. "The uncertainty of its conclusion added a layer of intrigue and danger, making it all the more captivating."
Embracing a role that demanded she shed the trappings of glamour, Moore, at 61, daringly delved into the depths of her aging character's fading beauty. "In a sense, that's precisely what drew me to the project," Moore reminisces. "The raw vulnerability and the peeling away of layers was not just intriguing but also liberating in myriad ways."
While feminist films delving into ageism and unrealistic beauty standards are not unheard of, "The Substance" stands apart for its grotesque utilization of a titular substance that allows Sparkle to literally divide herself, birthing a younger, more radiant version (portrayed by Margaret Qualley).
Initially, Sparkle's alter-ego fulfills every aspiration, but the idyllic facade soon shatters as she navigates the perilous terrain of inhabiting two bodies. Director Coralie Fargeat recounts the casting process as a formidable hurdle, yet lauds Moore's profound understanding of the role.
"I knew from the outset that casting an actress to confront such intense, resonant themes would be arduous," Fargeat shares with BBC News. "When Demi's name surfaced, I assumed she'd shy away from the daunting challenge. But her enthusiastic response to the script left me stunned – a delightful surprise indeed." Having debuted with "Revenge" in 2017, Fargeat sought an actress who could embody the role's grandeur while daringly leaping into the unknown.
The Substance is a cinematic experience that is bound to evoke a complex array of emotions within you. Its initial hour embodies the essence of what cinema ought to be—bold, groundbreaking, and utterly captivating. As the narrative transitions into its second half, it's not necessarily a decline in quality, but rather a test of your threshold for the visceral and the grotesque.
Qualley herself emphasizes, in an era where celebrated directors often delve into the realm of "hushed, intimate narratives," she finds joy in how this film "forcefully slams into your consciousness." Praises have poured in, with some critics awarding it the ultimate accolade of five stars. Tim Robey of The Telegraph raves, "The Substance is a satirical horror-thriller that packs a punch, alternating between hilarity, emotional depth, and stupefying grotesqueries." Anna Smith from Rolling Stone adds, "It pushes the boundaries of body horror to their limits, daring viewers to keep watching, even as nausea, disgust, or the urge to flee tempts them—all these reactions are valid and expected."
Yet, not everyone was charmed. Kevin Maher of The Times deemed it "childish, devoid of purpose, and intellectually shallow," recounting instances where audience members fled the Cannes Film Festival screening in disgust.
Setting aside personal preferences, Moore and Qualley deliver performances that arguably stand as the pinnacles of their respective careers. Moore, in particular, shines as Sparkle descends into madness, her portrayal nothing short of breathtaking. Fargeat reveals that during their encounter, "I gained a deeper understanding of Moore as a person, her resilience in overcoming personal struggles to arrive at a place of self-assurance and strength, ready to confront vulnerability head-on. I sensed a profound understanding of my vision, and she embraced the filmmaking's daring—the risks, the nudity—with unwavering commitment."
While Moore's role spans a broad spectrum, Qualley faced a unique challenge: embodying an ideal of perfection. She confesses, "I've never felt more protective of my own body, but this experience taught me to cherish what I have and fostered a profound intimacy with myself that I now deeply value."
"In what manner is it defensive?" she elucidates, "When the mandate is to embody perfection on screen, where close-ups scrutinize every curve of your posterior, fake breasts adorn your chest, and you're wrapped up like a meticulously crafted sweet, the endeavor is to forge a flawless character. This process entails camouflaging every imperfection within me, burying the authentic Margaret to birth Sue. And so, the prospect of reverting to my authentic self fills me with genuine joy."
Moore chimed in, "I perceive Margaret's journey as fraught with more pressure to attain that elusive perfection. It liberated me to arrive on set and embrace my flaws unabashedly!" Award season prognosticators have been engaged in heated debates, pondering if this cinematic endeavor will make waves in the Oscars race. Its screenplay, direction, makeup artistry, special effects, soundtrack, and performances undeniably exude quality. Many contend that Moore, with a storied career spanning Ghost to A Few Good Men, is long overdue for Academy recognition.
However, The Substance might prove a bit daunting for some Academy voters due to its daring subject matter. It remains to be seen if the Oscars will embrace this bold offering. When queried about potential accolades, Moore's words were carefully chosen, as is customary among actors wary of jinxing their chances. "In every endeavor, one harbors hopes that it will resonate deeply and leave a lasting impact. I deeply appreciate works that inspire introspection," she mused. "More than accolades, I aspire for a genuine cultural shift, a pathway this film might pave. Where that leads, I dare not predict."
The film has sparked widespread discussions on Hollywood's absurd beauty ideals. "It delves into how women are visually perceived and how societal projections, from childhood onward, mold their psyche," Fargeat reflects. "From self-loathing to the perpetual feeling of inadequacy—never quite good enough, beautiful enough, thin enough, or young enough. Each life stage presents a new lens to magnify one's imperfections."
Lately, conversations surrounding beauty standards in Hollywood have taken on a more enlightened tone, with Moore acknowledging, "We've indeed made strides." Yet, she adds, "Are there further steps to take? Absolutely. But the diversification and representation of women in all forms of beauty—be it aging, race, or size—have come a long way since my beginnings. It's a journey that's traveled far, yet still has miles to go." The Substance hits UK and US theaters on Friday, September 20th.
