The premiere episode of "The New Look" on Apple TV Plus, entitled "Just You Wait and See," artfully intertwines historical drama with a nuanced exploration of character, all while unfolding against the harrowing tapestry of World War II. It recounts a narrative of survival, ambition, and the moral labyrinths traversed by two legendary fashion icons: Christian Dior and Coco Chanel.
The episode unfolds in 1955, amidst post-war Paris, where the city pulsates with electric anticipation for Coco Chanel's (portrayed by Juliette Binoche) triumphant return collection. Meanwhile, Christian Dior (embodied by Ben Mendelsohn) shines as an ascending luminary, feted at a grandiose event in the City of Light. The dichotomy between the two designers is instantly palpable: Chanel, embodying resolve and fierce determination, contrasts sharply with Dior, depicted as a more introspective and sensitive soul, who seeks refuge behind the scenes, finding solace in the mystical realms of tarot cards.
As the masses eagerly await Dior's grand entrance, the tension thickens, offering us a peek into the daunting pressures of fame and the insatiable public thirst for fashion. The staff's frenetic efforts to orchestrate the chaos underline the daunting task of maintaining an unblemished image under the scrutiny of the public eye, while Dior's reluctance to confront the masses adds a touch of fragility to his persona.
The dramatic tension escalates when a probing question about Chanel's wartime endeavors arises, transporting us back to 1943, during the depths of Nazi occupation in Paris. Here, we witness the stark realities of existence under occupation, as Dior and Chanel carefully tread through a moral minefield.
We are introduced to Catherine Dior (played by Maisie Williams), Christian's sister, who is also an integral member of the French Resistance. A harrowing encounter with Nazi soldiers underscores the perilous predicaments faced by Parisians, and the brutal, unforgiving realities of wartime violence. Catherine's narrow escape from near-rape and her subsequent rescue by the Resistance serve as a harrowing reminder of the horrifying atrocities perpetuated during this dark period.
In a parallel narrative thread, we witness Chanel's complicity with the Nazi forces as she brokers a deal to secure the liberty of her nephew, Andre. Her encounters with the Nazi officials, especially with the enigmatic Spatz (portrayed by Claes Bang), peel away the layers of her character, exposing a darker facet as she navigates the perilous landscape of collaboration.
This episode delves deeply into the moral ambiguity surrounding the quest for survival, as both Dior and Chanel are confronted with agonizing decisions. Dior justifies designing for Nazi women to fund the Resistance, while Chanel willingly employs her connections to reclaim her fortune, thereby blurring the boundaries between virtue and vice.
The sacrifices made by the Resistance are starkly evident, as we bear witness to the execution of Jean and his comrades. Their steadfast refusal to divulge information under torture underscores the gravity of the stakes and the immense cost of defiance against the Nazi tyranny.
As the episode reaches its climax, the tension escalates. Christian, having been alerted to Catherine's peril, races against the ticking clock to rescue her, while Chanel confronts a Faustian bargain that could potentially alter the trajectory of the war. The episode concludes on a breathtaking cliffhanger, with Catherine's abduction and the ramifications of Chanel's potential accord with the Nazis hanging in the balance.
"The New Look" - "Just You Wait and See" marks an exhilarating inception to the series, offering a nuanced depiction of two fashion icons amidst a tumultuous era. It is a narrative that plunges into the depths of the human psyche, exploring the price of ambition and the intricate choices that must be navigated in the face of adversity. With its captivating characters, intricately woven plot, and breathtaking period detail, this episode sets an exceptionally high standard for the remainder of the season.
