In Season 1, Episode 3 of "The New Look," titled "Nothing But Blue Skies," the narrative of survival and betrayal unfolds with poignant depth, as the characters' choices mirror the brutal realities of wartime and the intricate labyrinths of human nature. This episode stands as a testament to the series' prowess in depicting the intricate tapestry of alliances and deceit that characterized Paris during the Nazi occupation.
Coco Chanel (portrayed by Juliette Binoche) returns to Paris, her mission to Madrid having ended in failure, to confront the stark reality of her entanglement with the Nazis. Her lover, Spatz (played by Claes Bang), must go into hiding as the Allies draw nearer, abandoning Chanel to confront her destiny alone. The stakes escalate dramatically when Pierre Reverdy (Sagamore Stévenin) informs her that she is listed among the Nazi collaborators and must betray someone to prove her allegiance to France. This dire situation forces Chanel to make a life-altering decision that will forever shape her legacy.
Meanwhile, Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) finds himself at his wits' end, desperately searching for a way to rescue his sister, Catherine (Maisie Williams), who has been imprisoned in a concentration camp. Driven to desperation, Dior considers blackmailing a Nazi and turns to Beatrice Schmidt (Anna Redman), a compassionate Nazi girlfriend who knows Catherine. The cost of her assistance is astronomical, pushing Dior to the precipice of moral and financial collapse.
As the Allies close in on Paris, the city descends into a whirlwind of chaos, and the Resistance gears up for retribution. Dior's quest to locate Catherine becomes increasingly urgent, prompting him to steal fabric from Maison Lelong to use as a bribe. Instead of punishing Dior, Lucien Lelong (John Malkovich) offers him more fabric, illustrating the complex interplay of survival and complicity that existed during the occupation.
Chanel's decision to betray Spatz in order to save her own skin marks a pivotal moment in the episode. Their ultimate confrontation, steeped in deceit and shattered trust, serves as a poignant illustration of how war twists even the most unyielding of bonds. Chanel's actions not only cement Spatz's doomed fate but also etch her own moral decline into stone.
Meanwhile, Dior finds himself adrift in hopelessness after a fellow Resistance member takes Franz's life, the solitary figure who held the key to unraveling Catherine's secrets. His visit to Chanel at the Ritz uncovers her shattered psyche and steadfast refusal to lend a hand, underscoring the pervasive despair and helplessness that clouds their existence.
The episode draws to a close with the liberation of Paris, embodied by the azure skies and the resonant peals of bells. In a desperate bid to purge herself of her Nazi affiliations, Chanel dishes out perfume to French soldiers, masquerading as the patriotic Frenchwoman she once embodied. Conversely, Dior, unable to rejoice in the victory sans his sister, mourns solitarily in his apartment, serving as a poignant testament to the personal tolls of war.
"Nothing But Blue Skies" stands as a gripping chapter of "The New Look," delving into the darkest recesses of the human psyche, where survival frequently exacts a toll on morality and relationships. The episode leaves viewers with a profound impression of the tragic decisions made by Dior and Chanel during wartime, and the enduring repercussions of their actions.
