In the fourth installment of "The New Look," entitled "What a Difference," the narrative delves deeply into the aftermath of Paris' liberation from Nazi occupation, painting a vivid contrast between the lives of Coco Chanel and Christian Dior. As the city bursts with joy, the personal struggles of these legendary fashion icons come to the forefront, underscoring their unyielding spirit and the moral quandaries that continue to shadow their steps.
Coco Chanel (portrayed by Juliette Binoche) finds herself confronting the repercussions of her wartime decisions. Amidst celebrations with her nephew Andre, his friend Oscar Davies, and her actress companion Arletty, Chanel's fleeting sense of relief is swiftly overshadowed. The French Forces of the Interior (FFI) are hot on her trail, and she is confronted with the harsh reality that her associations with the Nazis might brand her as a collaborator. The tension is almost tangible as Chanel is apprehended and grilled, ultimately leveraging her connections to Churchill to secure her freedom—a testament to her ingenuity and the perilous nature of her circumstances.
Meanwhile, Christian Dior (embodied by Ben Mendelsohn) remains ensnared in the uncertainty surrounding his sister Catherine's fate. The episode kicks off with Dior at a clairvoyant evening, a subtle nod to his belief in the supernatural realm. Madame Delahaye's prophecy of a loved one being imprisoned and his future entanglement with an infant leaves Dior utterly perplexed, adding an air of mystery to his character.
Arletty's fear of being singled out by the FFI for her wartime liaison with a German officer casts a somber shadow over the revelry. Despite her steadfast refusal to participate in Nazi propaganda films, her past looms over her present, echoing the broader theme of how the war's legacy continues to reshape individuals' lives in myriad ways.
Chanel's decision to betray Spatz in order to save herself constitutes a critical juncture within the episode's narrative. Her actions not only seal Spatz's grim destiny but also cement her own moral decline into a chasm of despair. In stark contrast, Dior's relentless pursuit to rescue Catherine propels him towards drastic measures, contemplating the theft of fabric from Maison Lelong to secure funds. To Dior's astonishment, Lucien Lelong's unexpected offer of support serves as a beacon of hope, presenting him with a lifeline and an invaluable opportunity to contribute to the Théâtre de la Mode—a remarkable exhibition that underscores the French fashion industry's resilience and creativity amidst adversity.
The Théâtre de la Mode, a traveling showcase of intricately crafted miniature dresses adorning doll-sized mannequins, emerges as a symbol of rejuvenation and optimism. It stands as a testament to the ingenuity and creative prowess of French fashion in the face of scarcity. Dior's involvement in this exhibition marks a pivotal moment in his career trajectory, as his designs garner widespread accolades, paving the way for his future triumphs.
"Nothing But Blue Skies" is a gripping chapter of "The New Look" that delves into the shadowy recesses of the human psyche, where survival frequently comes at the expense of morality and interpersonal bonds. As the episode concludes, the bells of Paris toll in celebration, while Chanel distributes perfume to French soldiers as a gesture of her allegiance. Conversely, Dior, heartsore and desolate, weeps in solitude, contemplating the personal sacrifices of warfare and the uncertain horizon that stretches before him.
