In Season 1, Episode 8 of "The New Look," titled "I Love You Most of All," the intricate tapestry of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel's lives continues to unwind against the vibrant yet tumultuous backdrop of post-war Paris. This poignant episode delves deeply into the personal and professional trials that these legendary fashion icons confronted, underscoring their unyielding spirit and the transformative power of creativity amidst overwhelming adversity.
The episode opens with Coco Chanel (portrayed by Juliette Binoche), still in exile in Switzerland, concealed with Elsa Lombardi (Emily Mortimer). Chanel's yearning to reclaim her Parisian soil and revive her perfume venture is almost tangible, a desperate longing that pulses through every fiber of her being. Her fateful encounter with Carmel Snow (embodied by Glenn Close), the Editor-in-Chief of Harper's Bazaar, offers a ray of hope piercing through the darkness. Snow's pledge to assist Chanel in her return to Paris and champion her new perfumes marks a pivotal moment, igniting Chanel's fervent desire to reclaim her throne in the fashion realm.
Meanwhile, in Paris, Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) and Raymonde Zehnacker find themselves immersed in the hunt for models to showcase Dior's maiden solo collection. Dior's unwavering commitment to fairness, steadfastly refusing to poach models from rival designers, leads to an ingenious solution: a newspaper advertisement seeking first-time models. This bold decision sets the stage for an unexpected twist, as a queue of prostitutes forms outside Dior's doorstep, much to Marcel Boussac's (Patrick Albenque) consternation and dismay.
Elsewhere, Catherine Dior (Maisie Williams), still healing from her traumatic experiences, is spotted with Herve (David Kammenos) at a bustling local market. Her chance encounter with Tania's father, who is desperately searching for his missing daughter, introduces an intriguing layer of mystery and tension. Catherine's fleeting recognition upon seeing a photograph hints at secrets she harbors, leaving viewers intrigued and wondering about the depths of her unspoken truths.
Coco Chanel's tumultuous world spirals further with the reappearance of Spatz, now renamed Peter Lang (portrayed by Claes Bang), her former flame. His plea for financial assistance and Chanel's counterproposal of aiding his return to Paris weave a tale of intrigue. Yet, Spatz's paranoia about Elsa potentially being a British spy injects an element of complexity, culminating in a dramatic standoff that prompts Chanel to sever ties with both individuals.
The episode reaches its poignant apex with Dior's visit to his brother Bernard, confined within the walls of a psychiatric hospital. Their poignant discourse on life's ephemerality and the whimsical dance of leaves in the countryside ignites Dior's creative spark, inspiring him to sketch his latest collection. Yet, this triumph of artistic ingenuity is eclipsed by the shocking news of his father's untimely demise, leading to a heart-wrenching scene where Dior, in a fit of grief, shreds his designs before discovering his masterpiece in a sketch inspired by his brother.
"I Love You Most of All" stands as a profound chapter in "The New Look," delving deeply into the emotional landscapes of its characters. It embodies the unyielding strength of the human spirit, the transformative power of creativity, and the labyrinthine nature of relationships amidst a world still grappling with the aftershocks of war. As the episode draws to a close, viewers are left with a profound appreciation for the indomitable will of those who steer the course of history, even as they battle their inner demons and the formidable challenges of a world in flux.
