In the penultimate chapter of "The New Look," entitled "Will You Return," the lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel continue to unfurl amidst the poignant backdrop of post-war Paris, where both iconic designers relentlessly strive to reclaim their throne in the realm of fashion. This episode serves as a heartfelt delve into the resilience of these characters, their innovative visions, and the intricate tapestry of their interpersonal connections.
The episode begins with a nostalgic flashback to the year 1905, depicting a youthful Coco Chanel (portrayed by Juliette Binoche) and Elsa Lombardi meeting and pledging an unbreakable bond, vowing to weather any storm life might bring. This pivotal moment establishes the profound friendship that has shaped their lives and the trials they have bravely confronted together. In the contemporary narrative, Chanel is seen rescuing Elsa from the clutches of incarceration, illustrating the severe depths of Elsa's addiction and Chanel's unwavering determination to rehabilitate her friend. Chanel's insistence that Elsa seeks refuge in London with her half-sister, Lottie, speaks volumes of her profound affection for her friend, transcending their recent estrangements.
Christian Dior (embodied by Ben Mendelsohn) finds himself preparing for his father's solemn funeral, a moment that starkly highlights the personal sacrifices his professional aspirations have necessitated upon his family. Prior to his departure from Paris, Dior extends an offer to Pierre Cardin, naming him the Head Tailor of his fashion house—a decision that mirrors his dedication to assembling a dream team of virtuosos to breathe life into his vision. However, Dior grapples with pressure from Marcel Boussac and his cohort, who express concern over his apparent delays and understaffing, fearing the imminent threat of missing the deadline for his maiden collection.
At the funeral, Dior's brother Raymond lays bare his criticisms of their father's business prowess and questions Dior's aptitude for success, drawing a parallel between their father's failures and Dior's ongoing endeavors. This undercurrent of tension is further fueled by Raymond's skepticism towards Dior's relationship with Jacques and his belief in tarot cards, revealing the profound doubts and fierce rivalries that persist within the Dior family.
In the tranquil setting of Switzerland, Chanel, Andre, and Elsa share a tense dinner with Spatz, who persists in utilizing the alias Peter Lang. Andre's lingering suspicions regarding Spatz's true identity, coupled with his probing interrogation of Chanel about their relationship, amplify the palpable tension surrounding Chanel. The evening descends into tragedy when Elsa, consumed by her addiction to a sleep-inducing medication, is discovered lifeless on the sofa, a victim of an overdose provided by none other than Spatz. Chanel is plunged into a profound grief, haunted by the sorrow of losing her dearest friend and the bittersweet memory of their strained farewell.
Dior's creative juices are abruptly halted by the shocking news of his father's sudden demise, an event that shatters him to his very foundation. Amidst the emotional turbulence, Dior discovers a beacon of inspiration in his brother Bernard's words, which extol the duality of light and dark that defines humanity. Emboldened, he proceeds to sketch his next collection. However, this triumph is tinged with sadness as Dior's name is affixed above the entrance of his fashion house, marking his professional ascendancy while also symbolizing the profound personal loss he has endured.
"Will You Return" is a potent chapter of "The New Look," diving into the profound emotional landscapes of its characters. It highlights the unyielding resilience of the human spirit, the transformative power of creativity, and the intricate dynamics of relationships in a world still grappling with the aftermath of war. As the episode draws to a close, viewers are left with a profound sense of the indomitable spirit of those who shape history, even as they wrestle with their own inner demons and the myriad challenges of a world in transition.
